Northern Rhône

The Northern Rhône has far less in common with its southern counterpart than nomenclature would suggest. In terms of scale, it more nearly resembles Burgundy than any other region of France: growers have to make a living from four or five hectares here, whereas in the south many domains have 30 or 40 ha. This is the land of the small grower who knows every inch of his soil. Geologically, too, the Northern Rhône is the only fine French wine produced principally from granite soils (Beaujolais and Muscadet are two other, lesser examples). In climate terms, too, the north is very different from the south. Syrah is the great red grape of the Northern Rhône, though in some locations here it is at the limit of its ripening possibilities. No other Syrah anywhere else in the world can match that of the Northern Rhône for freshness, perfume and vivacity.

White wines are more significant as fine wines in the Northern Rhône than they are in the South. Condrieu is the original location of the Viognier grape variety, and is still where it produces its most powerfully aromatic wines; white Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and St Joseph are based on Roussanne and Marsanne, providing subtler, more teasing floral aromas and a wealth of flavour which makes them a fine alternative to white Burgundy.

Two great appellations dominate the Northern Rhône. The first is Côte Rôtie. Here on the steep 'roasted slope', Syrah is sometimes blended with Viognier and sometimes left as a pure varietal; in either case, the wines have unrivalled perfume, poise and finesse. The second is Hermitage. Syrah is used unblended here to create wines of greater power and firmness than at Côte Rôtie. Both age superbly. Cornas, meanwhile, is the most rugged of all of the Northern Rhône appellations, while the best sites in St Joseph can approach the quality of Hermitage and Côte Rôtie. Crozes-Hermitage offers fine value.